Katas Raj Temple Complex. Ancient remains of Hindu temple complex.

I finally managed to visit the Katas Raj Temple complex on 18 August 2013. This involved a drive of 220 km via the Islamabad Motor Way exiting at Kalar Kahar. A drive of 25 km on the Kalar Kahar road passing settlements like Khairpur, Daler Pur (note the Hindu names) and Tatral to Choa Saidan Sah where the ancient temple complex is located.

Historical: These temples, some of them dated around 6th Century AD and some forts that were build more recently, around 900 years ago. The temples are built around a pond which is considered holy by Hindu and a dip in this pond is believed to cleanse their sins. The pond has under ground source of bubbling water and is said to be 50 feet deep. After the partition of Indai and Pakistan in 1947 the complex remained uncared for and today the entrances to the temples are locked and devoid of the holy idols. A local man told me that several weapons and other relics have been stored in the reception building in the complex but the building remained closed for public viewing.

Renovation of the site: Some efforts of protection and renovation is evident and it started after a visit by the then Indian Deputy PM, Mr. Lal Krishna Advani visited the temples. At the moment however, I was told that the staffs have now been removed and the work has slowed down. I appreciated that restorations and protections are in fact being carried out (although I thought the marble flooring as a little out of place and time). As a Hindu myself, the worst feeling for me is to see the temples empty of its idols, their soul. This state is not new as I have seen many remains of temples in various state of abandonment, deprived of its soul the idols. Even though Pakistan is a Muslim country and does have many majestic Masjids, the Hindu temples (and some Buddhist stupas) are also the ancient heritage of the country and should be preserved, not for religion or faith but at least for their historical value.

Ram Chandra Temple

Individual temples in the complex: Some main temples in the Katas Raj complex are the Hanuman mandir, Ram Chandra Mandir, Shiva Mandir. Important buildings in the site are the fort cum dweling of Hari Singh, a Sikh General of Ranjit Singh, a dwelling of Maharaja Sundar Nath and a 12 doored square building. Another important land mark is the remains of the stupa claimed to be erected by Emperor Ashoka. One can clearly see many small caves on the other side of the stream, across the road, in the face of the limestone ledges. Buddhist monks were said to be using these for their meditation and that a Buddhist centre of education was in this area in ancient times.

Shiva Temple

Hanuman Temple and Ram Chandra Temple

An idol bass relief on Ram Chandra Temple wall

Ram Chandra Temple: view from across pond

Saat Ghara or the Seven Temples: On the topmost platform are a set of small temples which are stated to be the remaining of the 7 temples build by Pandavas when they spent 4 years out of the 12 years of exile (banabas). Three such temples are now standing after renovation.

The pond where Yudhisthar saved his brothers: The local guide told me that the pond was famous from Mahabharata and was the same pond where the eldest Pandava, Uddhistir answered all the question of the Yakchhya and managed to revive his four brothers who fainted/died being unable to answer the Yakchhya's question before being allowed to drink water from the pond.

The Saat Ghara or Seven Temples

Another legend related it to the death of Sati Devi, Lord Mahadev's wife. When Sati Devi died Mahadev wept in sorrow for so long that his tears filled the pond.

Stupa of Ashoka (top) and leaf on temple wall stone (bottom)

Another interesting aspect of this complex and the area in itself are the limestone rocks that have embedded in them sea shells embedded in them as fossils and one could also see clear imprints of leaves in the building blocks of stone used in the construction of several temples and their adjacent walls.

I am very happy that during my final days in Pakistan I was able to visit this great area. Along with Harappa, Taxila and some other such heritages in Punjab Province this also gets recognised as a World Heritage site for which I heard Pakistan is thinking of applying for.